There’s a certain timeless quality to the way Garrett and Alexandra Conover navigate Maine’s backcountry, much like the rivers they’ve paddled for decades, steady and unhurried. Based in the small town of Upton, near the New Hampshire border, this husband-and-wife team has dedicated their lives to sharing the wild essence of the Pine Tree State. Through their guiding service, North Woods Ways, they lead canoe trips, snowshoe expeditions, and wilderness workshops that emphasize traditional techniques passed down from indigenous and early settler traditions. It’s not about conquering the land, but harmonizing with it—a philosophy that’s as rooted in Maine’s soil as the ancient white pines that tower overhead.
From City Roots to Wilderness Calling
Garrett Conover’s journey into Maine’s wilderness began far from the state’s rugged trails. Born in New Jersey, he discovered a passion for the outdoors during family camping trips. By the 1970s, he had moved to Maine, drawn by its vast forests and pristine waterways. There, he honed his skills as a registered Maine guide, specializing in canoeing and winter travel. Alexandra, originally from Massachusetts, shared a similar pull toward nature. She met Garrett while working in outdoor education, and together they founded North Woods Ways in 1984. Their operation started small, with trips on the Allagash Wilderness Waterway and other remote rivers, but it quickly grew into a respected name in experiential guiding.
What sets the Conovers apart is their commitment to authenticity. They don’t rely on modern gear alone; instead, they teach clients how to use traditional tools like wooden canoes, canvas tents, and wood-fired stoves. “We’re not just taking people out for a paddle,” Garrett once explained in an interview. “We’re immersing them in a way of life that’s sustainable and respectful.” This approach has earned them a loyal following among those seeking more than a superficial adventure.
Building a Legacy in Upton
Upton, a tiny community in Oxford County with fewer than 100 residents, serves as the perfect base for North Woods Ways. Surrounded by the Mahoosuc Public Reserved Land and close to the Appalachian Trail, the area offers endless opportunities for exploration. The Conovers’ home is a hub of activity, where they prepare for trips and host workshops on skills like fire-building and navigation. Alexandra, with her background in environmental education, often incorporates lessons on local ecology, pointing out edible plants or animal tracks during outings.
Their business model is community-focused, employing local assistants and sourcing supplies from Maine artisans. This not only supports the regional economy but also preserves cultural practices. In a state where tourism can sometimes overshadow local needs, the Conovers prioritize low-impact travel, ensuring their groups leave no trace.
Signature Trips and Traditional Skills
The heart of North Woods Ways lies in its guided expeditions, which range from multi-day canoe journeys to winter snowshoe treks. One popular offering is their trips on the St. John River, a remote waterway bordering Canada that’s rich in history and wildlife. Paddlers might spot moose wading in shallows or eagles soaring above, all while learning to pole canoes upstream—a skill Garrett mastered from old-time log drivers.
In winter, the Conovers lead snowshoe trips through the snow-blanketed forests around Rangeley Lakes. These excursions often involve camping in heated tents and cooking over open fires, evoking the era of fur trappers and lumberjacks. Alexandra emphasizes the sensory aspects: the crunch of snow underfoot, the scent of woodsmoke, and the silence broken only by a distant owl’s call. “Winter strips away distractions,” she says. “It forces you to be present.”
For those interested in skill-building, the Conovers offer workshops on topics like traditional canoe repair and wild food foraging. Practical tips abound: always check river levels before launching, pack wool clothing for its warmth even when wet, and learn to read the weather by cloud patterns. Here’s a quick list of essentials they recommend for any Maine wilderness trip:
- A sturdy canoe or snowshoes, depending on the season
- Waterproof maps and a compass—GPS can fail in remote areas
- Layered clothing to handle Maine’s fickle weather
- A first-aid kit with items for insect bites and hypothermia
- Biodegradable soap to minimize environmental impact
These elements ensure safety while honoring the land’s fragility.
“We’re not just taking people out for a paddle. We’re immersing them in a way of life that’s sustainable and respectful.” — Garrett Conover
Conservation and Cultural Insights
Beyond guiding, the Conovers are advocates for Maine’s natural heritage. They’ve witnessed changes in the landscape, from shifting wildlife patterns due to climate change to the pressures of development. Garrett has authored books like “Beyond the Paddle” and “The Snow Walker’s Companion,” which blend practical advice with reflections on wilderness ethics. These works draw on indigenous knowledge, particularly from the Wabanaki peoples, whose traditions of sustainable living inspire much of their teaching.
Ecologically, their trips highlight Maine’s diverse ecosystems. On a typical outing, participants learn about the boreal forest’s role in carbon storage or the importance of riparian zones for fish habitats. Historical insights add depth: the Conovers share stories of the Abenaki who navigated these waters long before European settlers, and the log drives that shaped rivers like the Kennebago in the 19th century.
In conversations with locals, the Conovers stress community involvement. “Maine’s wild places are a shared resource,” Alexandra notes. They’ve collaborated with organizations like the Appalachian Mountain Club to promote trail maintenance and conservation efforts.
Challenges and Future Visions
Running a guiding service in Maine isn’t without hurdles. Harsh weather, permitting regulations, and the physical demands of the job test even seasoned experts. The Conovers have adapted by offering shorter, family-friendly trips alongside their more rugged adventures. Looking ahead, they aim to mentor the next generation of guides, ensuring traditional skills endure.
Their story reflects broader themes in Maine: resilience, respect for nature, and a quiet pride in local ways. As one client put it after a trip, “The Conovers don’t just show you the wilderness; they help you become part of it.”
“Winter strips away distractions. It forces you to be present.” — Alexandra Conover
Through North Woods Ways, Garrett and Alexandra Conover continue to weave people into the fabric of Maine’s wild heart, one paddle stroke at a time. Their work reminds us that true adventure lies in connection, not conquest, in a state where the land still speaks to those who listen.
